We’re making some progress learning the CAD software.
Above is the yolk of Martin’s basic shirt pattern. Sewists with a keen eye will probably notice that the yolk is smaller than those of most commercial patterns. Martin designed it that way on purpose.
What do you think of the business name?
We were thinking of Gray Kitty Patterns because we couldn’t resist resurrecting our Gray Kitty character from the days when he starred in our Adventures of Gray Kitty children’s story book iPhone apps (they’re deleted now — we decided not to maintain them).
We mentioned the name idea in chatting with an interior designer at a party recently and she told Martin that Gray Kitty Patterns would make her wonder whether he’s really serious. I’m used to being silly online and love the idea of our logo involving a character we can dress up but I think she may have a point. And, after reading the section on business naming in The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella, I think our designer friend may have a very good point. Kathleen suggests a more traditional (not cutesy) business name if you want to be taken seriously in the apparel industry. Not that we’ll really be in the apparel industry offering patterns to the home sewing market, but I get the point that we may be dealing with more traditional business people who think that being silly detracts from our business credibility.
This draft logo shows the new business name idea.
I think Gray kitty looks quite statuesque and regal here. Would you buy a pattern from this kitty?
In other news, we did an experiment.
Kathleen’s post on using saran wrap to approximate an anatomically correct bodice pattern block gave us the idea of wrapping my upper arm/shoulder to get an accurate armscye/sleeve cap shape for pattern drafting.
The above photo shows our attempt to capture the shape of the armsyce.
I hoped having Martin trace an armhole on me as a live fit model would produce the desired armscye/sleeve cap shape Kathleen Fasanella illustrates in this post, but that didn’t happen.
Here’s what the shape looks like with the sleeve cut away.
And here’s what the cut away sleeve cap looks like.
A very standard looking sleeve cap.
After reading pages 163-169 of Kathleen Fasanella’s book and pondering armscyes for a bit longer, I think the above method isn’t the best way to figure out your ideal armscye shape. I believe it doesn’t work because the more sloped armhole shape depicted in Kathleen’s book is optimized for our arms moving, not our arms hanging at rest, as I suggested in the previous post. Optimizing the shape for our arms at rest creates the above looking shapes, but the ideal armscye allows for the typical forward and downward range of arm motion described in Kathleen’s book.
To fix my sleeve cap, I need to add a little to the back and scoop out a little bit more of the front. If I wore the above sleeve cap shape without making these adjustments (some ease would need to be added as well, but not to optimize range of motion) I believe I would have pulling in the back and bunching in the front as I moved my arms.
It’s interesting to note that Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto suggest similar sleeve cap changes for those same symptoms, i.e., pulling in the back and bunching in the front, but they don’t explain why those changes fix the problem.
Update: here’s a comment that showed up as spam. I would have published the comment but the link was to a site selling drugs. “The closer the armhole fits to the body, the more shaped the armhole is on a pattern and the more mobility the sleeve will have. This may not make sense at first but think of an oversize or dropped shoulder silhouette. On such a style, the armhole is less shaped and therefore does not move with the arm as well. When the arm is raised in an oversized or a dropped shoulder, the underarm “wedges” out. Initially, a pattern maker may want to reduce the bust width at the side seam but all that is needed is to add more shape near the bottom of the armhole.”