We figured out how to put markings on the pattern pieces.
We’re making some progress learning the CAD software.
Above is the yolk of Martin’s basic shirt pattern. Sewists with a keen eye will probably notice that the yolk is smaller than those of most commercial patterns. Martin designed it that way on purpose.
What do you think of the business name?
We were thinking of Gray Kitty Patterns because we couldn’t resist resurrecting our Gray Kitty character from the days when he starred in our Adventures of Gray Kitty children’s story book iPhone apps (they’re deleted now — we decided not to maintain them).
Tracey of the blog La Belette Rouge let us cast her Westie Lily in the story Gray Kitty and the Christmas Kitten. Tracey herself came to visit us to do the voice narration for the app. It was fun!
We mentioned the name idea in chatting with an interior designer at a party recently and she told Martin that Gray Kitty Patterns would make her wonder whether he’s really serious. I’m used to being silly online and love the idea of our logo involving a character we can dress up but I think she may have a point. And, after reading the section on business naming in The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella, I think our designer friend may have a very good point. Kathleen suggests a more traditional (not cutesy) business name if you want to be taken seriously in the apparel industry. Not that we’ll really be in the apparel industry offering patterns to the home sewing market, but I get the point that we may be dealing with more traditional business people who think that being silly detracts from our business credibility.
This draft logo shows the new business name idea.
Down the road we’ll need to hire a graphic designer to help us with logo, packaging and web site design. Does anyone know of a really good person who would be a good fit for a tiny biz like ours?
I think Gray kitty looks quite statuesque and regal here. Would you buy a pattern from this kitty?
In other news, we did an experiment.
Kathleen’s post on using saran wrap to approximate an anatomically correct bodice pattern block gave us the idea of wrapping my upper arm/shoulder to get an accurate armscye/sleeve cap shape for pattern drafting.
The above photo shows our attempt to capture the shape of the armsyce.
I hoped having Martin trace an armhole on me as a live fit model would produce the desired armscye/sleeve cap shape Kathleen Fasanella illustrates in this post, but that didn’t happen.
Here’s what the shape looks like with the sleeve cut away.
It looks like a pear.
And here’s what the cut away sleeve cap looks like.
Disappointed!
A very standard looking sleeve cap.
After reading pages 163-169 of Kathleen Fasanella’s book and pondering armscyes for a bit longer, I think the above method isn’t the best way to figure out your ideal armscye shape. I believe it doesn’t work because the more sloped armhole shape depicted in Kathleen’s book is optimized for our arms moving, not our arms hanging at rest, as I suggested in the previous post. Optimizing the shape for our arms at rest creates the above looking shapes, but the ideal armscye allows for the typical forward and downward range of arm motion described in Kathleen’s book.
To fix my sleeve cap, I need to add a little to the back and scoop out a little bit more of the front. If I wore the above sleeve cap shape without making these adjustments (some ease would need to be added as well, but not to optimize range of motion) I believe I would have pulling in the back and bunching in the front as I moved my arms.
It’s interesting to note that Fit for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto suggest similar sleeve cap changes for those same symptoms, i.e., pulling in the back and bunching in the front, but they don’t explain why those changes fix the problem.
Update: here’s a comment that showed up as spam. I would have published the comment but the link was to a site selling drugs. “The closer the armhole fits to the body, the more shaped the armhole is on a pattern and the more mobility the sleeve will have. This may not make sense at first but think of an oversize or dropped shoulder silhouette. On such a style, the armhole is less shaped and therefore does not move with the arm as well. When the arm is raised in an oversized or a dropped shoulder, the underarm “wedges” out. Initially, a pattern maker may want to reduce the bust width at the side seam but all that is needed is to add more shape near the bottom of the armhole.”
{ 30 comments… read them below or add one }
I love the name and the logo! And the thought that these patterns might be available to purchase soon?
I’m enjoying the ‘sleeve cap series.’ I like learning how oddly shaped, 2-D pieces turn into clothing that fits 3-D people.
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Thank you Sarah! We’re hoping to make one of the patterns available this Summer. It’s a slow process. Glad you like the experiments :).
great logo and name! The cat looks very retro and sophisticated, just the sort of thing I’d expect from a pattern company: something that suggests trasition with a hint of newness.
Any particular reason why Martin designed the yoke smaller?
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Thank you Ana. “Retro and sophisticated” and “tradition with a hint of newness” sounds perfect to me.
Martin designed the yolk smaller to get a better fit.
Top Cat made me think of cartoons… presumably there won’t be any copyright issues? The Grey Kitty is a completely different logo and I think it works nicely. Would you recommend the Palmer-Alto book?
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Hi Shelley, you’re right about Hannah Barbara Top Cat cartoons but top cat is a pretty generic phrase referring to a male cat that asserts his authority among other cats and anyway we’re using the words in a three-word phrase. I do recommend the Palmer-Alto book as a good reference for making typical pattern adjustments. I just wish they explained more of the reasoning behind some of the adjustments.
Love the logo and the name. You two are amazing to have made so much progress in such a short amount of time.
Hi Kathy, I glad you like the logo and the name. We like it too but we’re still thinking about it.
Your project is a mighty one!
I´d still consider the logo though. Remember, that it is a forever thing; something people will remember your business from.
It has to be simple, easy to remember, yet sophisticated, as the design will be unique.
So happy that this project interests both of you and it´s something you can share : ).
Hi Mette, we definitely are still thinking about the logo design. Does the current version not seem “simple, easy to remember, yet sophisticated” to you? You have a refined contemporary design sense but we want our patterns to appeal to the growing demographic of independent sewists who are motivated to make their own clothing to improve quality and in many cases to have access to retro or vintage designs. Martin’s designs will be variations on classic designs, so that’s why a logo with a “retro” feel seems good.
I know you think about these things very carefully and we are not at all sensitive to criticism so please tell us why you think our logo might not work well. It’s really a draft under consideration, that’s all.
I’m a little confused. I thought you were going to develop Martin’s designs for men. Do you think you’ll market them to women, buying things for men, or to men buying things for themselves? “Gray Kitty” doesn’t really tell me that you’re a producer of fine-fitting men’s wear.
I think you might get by with “Gray Kitty” if you think women will be the buyers. Everybody likes kitties. If you think men will be the buyers then “Top Cat” or possibly even “Top Dog” seems more appealing. You can tell what my sterotypes of men are :)
Personally I’d like the Top hat/Cane image in with the cat, but if it impinges on the cartoon I can see why you’d leave it out.
Hi Ginny, we’re not selling constructed garments, just menswear patterns for home sewing. We’d like to sell the patterns to anyone interested in sewing menswear patterns, male or female.
The designs are variations on classic menswear designs. Since they’re patterns, not clothes, the fit will depend on the skills of the sewist. We do plan to provide resources, e.g., in-depth instruction, videos, etc. to assist with sewing adjustments and construction.
“Gray Kitty Patterns” is a rejected name at this point. We think it’s too cute. We like Top Cat Patterns much better, and would like to keep the kitty in the logo, but we’re still thinking it over.
We love the Top hat/Cane image too, but aside from the possible copyright issues, it’s really too classic. Martin isn’t trying to copy classic British designs verbatim. Also, that image suggests bespoke, which is an entirely different approach than home sewing.
I love that Top Cat name and logo and especially the colours. I didn’t know you had started a new venture ; I wish you lots and lots of good luck and great fun !xx
Hi SB, I am glad you like the colors. I wanted something calming and retro. We’re already having fun!
My, you have been busy! I think Top Cat Patterns is a perfect name. Has a classy sound. As to the logo, I don’t know if I’d go with that Twenties type. It may be a little too retro for projecting a contemporary idea.
I should know what a yoke is with all my past sewing but it’s now so far behind me I’ve forgotten. Like the clean look of the pattern but had to look hard to read the name and number when it’s that small.
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Thank you Pat. Those are all good points. I’ll discuss this with Martin and we’ll experiment with some different fonts.
The yoke is the part of a man’s shirt the collar attaches to in the back.
Hi there. You asked about graphic designers. Jasonda Desmond of Dotty Logic designs logos, graphics, and more. I know of her through Kathleen and F-I. Jasonda has designed logos for Kathleen as well as the F-I header.
I see you’re a member of the F-I forum but haven’t posted yet. I hope you’ll post your bio soon and join the conversation there!
Hi LisaB,
Thank for the link to Dotty’s site. Her designs are gorgeous! I do plan to participate in the F-I forum but at the moment the learning curves I’m tackling are steep and I’ve not yet finished Kathleen’s book or the blog archives. I’d rather get some knowledge under my belt before making comments in an expert forum. Thank you for visiting!
Correction: It’s Jasonda’s site, not Dotty’s! Obviously I’m the one who’s dotty.
I can understand why you hesitate to jump into participating in the F-I forum, but I would really encourage you to introduce yourself there. It’s a great place to get feedback on the very topics you are discussing here in comments. Many folks have gotten valuable feedback on company names, logos, etc.
Hi Lisa,
I did just complete two bios (personal and business) on the forum. I feel a little funny putting our biz questions out there before I’ve finished reading the book and blog archives but I’ll post something soon. Meanwhile, I will definitely search the forum archives (and the blog) for posts on logos, etc. Thank you for visiting!
I know nothing about sewing, but I’ve learned a tiny bit about knitting. I wonder if reading a bit about shaping on knitting (especially for arms and armholes, which can be a challenge from what I understand) would help shed some light on how to approach this in sewing pattern-making?
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Hi Kerry,
Absolutely. In fact, this post by Kristin of K-Line does an excellent job of explaining it from the knitter’s perspective, but as Kristin pointed out to me in the comments, the adjustment details are different for knitted garments. I don’t know how/why they’re different, because I know nothing about knitting, but I can believe the differences in knitted vs. woven textiles affect adjustments. However, I suspect that the basic principles are the same for both kinds of textiles.
Partlan Pattern Design.
Elegant. Easy to remember. Gets your name out front.
Use the cat in the logotype and for your collateral materials if you wish for a mascot, but keep its design simple and clean. The point of a logo image is to augment or somehow link to your operation. A graphic designer will help you with this aspect.
Maintain the focus on your name and the object of your business, which is patterning.
Imagine how effortless answering the phone will be when the orders start to arrive. Business transactions will feel completely natural.
BTW, yokes are found in shirts and blouses for women, too. Their purpose, as I recall, is to ease fitting across the back and enable greater freedom of movement.
Ready-to-wear fashion in the past twenty years has all but abandoned using them, as clothing manufactories have been moved out of the USA, and patterns are ever more abbreviated.
Hi Elsa, I like Partlan Pattern Design! Actually, I thought of Partlan Patterns a few weeks ago but Martin doesn’t want Partlan in the name. He wants something more playful and imaginative. I suggested your change but he still likes Top Cat Patterns better.
That’s right, yolks are used in women’s blouses as well, though it’s been a long time since I’ve seen one. I think you’re right about its purpose but I’ve not done the research.
The situation with RTW is driving our desire to offer patterns.
Update: I checked out some of your poetry. Beautiful writing.
I suspected that might be the case. It has a nice alliteration to it, and it seemed odd that it hadn’t been considered. Even better is the sound of the combining of both his names. “Martin Partlan Designs” exhibits such wonderful assonance. But that left you out! Didn’t think that was right.
The thing about using a name (or a word phrase) that has already been used is that some will associate it with the earlier incarnations. Top Cat was a 1960s animated cartoon character. I don’t think that’s the association Martin would want, but frankly it was the first one that came to mind last evening when I read your post, despite the kitty image you used.
And that would be something you’d want to research, too. Just how many products already do use that same phrase?
I like cats. I like design. I’m not sure about the joining of the two for your venture, because there could be some initial confusion about the target client for whom the product is being designed. Cats? Design? Which sort? Of either? Don’t marketing folks often state the consumer shouldn’t have to think too deeply about purchases or related outlays of money?
Martin’s desire for a name that expresses something more playful and imaginative (after all, it seems to be a Bay Area requirement for naming a company in the last twenty years) is completely understandable, yet I’d keep thinking about it. You’ll have the company, it is hoped, for a long while.
I’m reminded of the many renowned couturier houses that use the top designer’s name. But of course others don’t. If he wishes to show his creative side and that is what is driving this decision, perhaps the destination has not yet been reached.
The state of reasonably priced RTW design is abysmal. Simply abysmal! Makes me sad. I’m old enough to remember when ’twas not the case.
(Thank you for the kind words in re my poems. I take it as high praise indeed, for I’m a great admirer of your own wordsmithery skills found here via your many postings across your blogs, which I’ve been reading and enjoying for a good long while now.)
ps. Should have replied to your reply, so shall put my little addendum here…
I realize that what you’re all about is not strictly couturier (often thought of more as the design’s execution); rather, it is but one part, one operation. The designer must hire pattern makers.
For Martin, though, the two operations have been combined into one function. The pattern maker’s trade (and it is a trade, although not as regimentally refined a one as it is, e.g., in tool-and-die manufacturing) is highly valued, as you no doubt have both been discovering while on your odyssey, and it’s often the final arbiter on whether or not a design actually works.
Which is the whole point. Does it work? In the end, can someone wear the garment? And not just a singular someone, but many if it is not to be bespoke?
What you say about pattern makers is true, as I’m quickly learning.
Martin custom fits his designs to himself but in transferring the patterns to CAD we have some decisions to make, aside from necessary meticulous corrections, e.g., making sure that all of the seam lines perfectly match. What we have to decide is how to offer the pattern sizes. Martin is close to an average size 42, but he’s 42.5 and has a larger neck circumference and narrower waist than the average size 42 dimensions. We’ve considered offering different fits, such as slim, regular, etc. and adjusting the neck to match the average dimensions before grading up/down.
The thing is, average dimensions really don’t fit anyone either. Home sewists need to adjust patterns to fit their own dimensions.
We’re able to print on demand (at least while we’re small, which may be forever!) so we’re also debating offering custom size patterns. It depends on how quickly we can master/execute the steps involved in adjusting the different dimensions. But even offering custom dimensions is light years away from the glory that is bespoke. Home patterns can’t ever match the bespoke experience because the tailoring craft is all about in-person communication and custom fitting. Pattern grading/adjusting is a rough approximation. To the extent that guys the same dimensions as Martin sew his shirts, they’ll fit great! Otherwise, the fit will depend on the skills of the sewist.
What we’re really trying to do is offer better patterns with more of the design elements of classic menswear pieces. Martin reads about the history of different elements, and then updates these elements in drafting his own patterns. We want to provide comprehensive instructions/videos and blog support to encourage more sewists to try to incorporate tailoring techniques, like flat felled seams, into their sewn garments.
You are very welcome :).
I liked the alliteration too. I passed on your reply to Martin. Maybe he’ll give it some thought. He’ll never agree to using Martin though because he doesn’t like his first name. I love both his first and last name and am proud to be a Partlan myself. I don’t mind being left out; he’s the designer and I’ll be wearing other hats. What you say about Top Cat is true. There’s a popular cartoon with that name and it is widely used in business and product names. However, Top Cat Patterns is a unique twist.
We hope to market the patterns online and similar to Google use the kitty as a character we can style with hats, bow ties and what not on the web site from time to time. We want to relate to home sewers and thought of the kitty as helping build that relationship. Our site/blog will be a mechanism for staying in touch with our customers. We expect the business to be strictly online, at least initially.
Update: I forgot to say thank you for your kind compliment :).
The subject is near and dear to me, as family members (long departed, dearly missed, but not forgotten) worked in the industry, both as factory managers and designers/pattern makers in the Midwest during the 1920s, ’30s, and ’40s.
There never has really been an average. For anybody. ’Tis an illusion created by the RTW industry. Expert seamstresses and seamsters (yep, that is the male equivalent) have always, always (!) done their own customizations and alterations.
Even thirty years ago, I took a lengthy seminar at Macy’s (funny that, speaking of RTW that it was offered in the store setting), which addressed custom fitting of patterns. Most enlightening.
Speaking now from my own experience as one who has sewn for decades, my observation is that some of what has transpired in RTW garment manufacturing is related both to stylistic changes and different choices available now in textiles, many of which are thinly woven and hang so poorly (particularly over bodies that carry a bit of extra weight or whose proportions have shifted), because they are deliberately manufactured to fall apart after a season or two. Planned obsolescence at work.
Martin’s thoughtful efforts to improve the lot of those who would sew their own clothes will go a long way to improving the foundation of the creative effort. Videos and blog support absolutely will help demystify the process. And you will have fun creating them.
Best of luck to you both in the endeavor.
Thank you Elsa. For some reason your comment (and the duplicate, which I deleted) got spam filtered even though I’d already approved you for comments. Hopefully it won’t happen again. Apologies for the glitch.
You must be very proud of your family’s history. It makes me sad to think of the special skills and jobs lost over the last several decades as the RTW has changed beyond recognition. I think you are right about the textiles. It is so awful.
I do hope our efforts will help DIYs get more enthusiastic about custom fitting patterns. Given your experience it sounds like you could teach us quite a bit about doing it efficiently.