Talented and gorgeous blogger Mocha of Pattern Therapy modeling Vogue 8543. Click for source.
I found the wonderful blog Pattern Therapy today googling Vogue 8543.
Doesn’t she look fantastic in the jacket?
It gives me hope because she needed to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA), and I think I need to do that too, plus add some at the waist.
I am grateful to sewing bloggers who post photos and descriptions of their fitting adjustments.
PatternReview is also great. As a member, I checked there first, but couldn’t decipher the details of the Vogue 8543 FBA adjustment advice.
Pictures really help.
I was worried the FBA would mess up the design, but obviously not!
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Hi Susan! Thanks for the endorsement…. I’m honored and grateful I could help. I hope it turns out well. I’ll be looking for the update from you. :)
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Vita, I am so glad, thank you!
Lovely suit!
So many people need to do FBAs. Patterns are often not drafted with adequate space in the bust for your average modern woman. (Vogue patterns, however, give more bust ease than other brands, IMO.)
The standard issue FBA (the one you see in FFRP, with the bust dart) may work very well on your shape because, as it adds bust room, it tends to add width in the torso. Given your under bust measurement, that could be useful. (I do realize that this jacket has princess seams, which require a different version of the FBA.)
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Hi Kristin,
I’m not sure how I came up with the completely wrong under bust measurement I posted on your blog in a recent comment, but my under bust is 35″, upper bust is 36.5″ and my full bust is 39″.
My daughter and I have a similar upper bust measurement, within a 1/2 inch. My daughter is very tiny and also small breasted. She’s lost even more weight since I last measured her but I don’t think the upper bust dimension changed much. Her under bust measurement is much smaller than the upper bust, and, as I recall, her full bust is not that much different than the under bust.
Isn’t the upper bust measurement supposed to be smaller than the under bust?
It is not so in our cases.
Since I have small breasts, I cannot account for the close to 4″ full bust difference other than it being due to my expansive rib cage, and probably a bit of fat, but that got factored out for at least halfway round doing the broad back adjustment.
The back is fitting well and meeting nicely at the side seams.
What could account for such a huge protrusion in the front at the bust of a small breasted woman? It must be my rib dimensions. What else could it be?
The jacket pattern does have princess seams, but in the front bodice, the seam ends below the bust, so a traditional FBA is what’s needed. PatternTherapy shows how to do it.
Well, for everyone who gripes about not enough bust area there are others of us whose chests are swimming in extra material!
Mocha’s jacket looks great. One of my concerns with your muslin version was how closely the jacket fit. I wondered how you’d get another layer under it. Seeing it made up I’m thinking of it more as a heavier button-front top, not as an outerwear jacket. It’s helpful to see what it’s going to be.
Hi Ginny,
You look nice and curvy to me, but I know we are all shaped so differently measurements and fitting problems can be deceiving. I would not have predicted needing an FBA, but there it is.
That’s an excellent point about the lining. I’d better take that into account. The new muslin with FBA should give me a clue as to how much more room I need. I could always cut a size up but what usually happens is that my upper chest/shoulders end up with way too much fabric.
The design is more appealing to me as a blouse than a jacket, but the first time around I’m making it as a jacket using linen for both layers. It it works well I may modify it to be one layer with interfacing at the collar, lapels and front placket.
I like those sleeves!
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I know! I wuv them.
That is one very snappy black suit. Reminds me that I used to work for Vogue drawing illustrations for their posters displayed in stores.
Fitting patterns like that was always beyond me. Thankfully my sewing career was mainly during the loose shift era days.
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I’m jealous of your career!
Fitting has been beyond me as well. Today, after spending yesterday studying the problem/solutions, I’m doing my very first Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). I’m a little nervous.