There will be a day very soon when I stop blogging about sleeves, but today is not that day.
Reading in the dissertation linked to in yesterday’s post about how surface intersections are approximated using cones and cylinders, I discovered that the method of slicing a cylinder at an angle we used to approximate a 3D armscye/sleeve cap intersection and flatten it to a 2D pattern shape is best suited for straight sleeves on closely fitted designs like jackets.
The sleeve cap is higher for this kind of design, restricting arm motion.
The diagram on pg. 80 (PDF pg. 104) of The Development of a Hybrid System for Designing and Pattern Making In-Set Sleeves by Morris Campbell shows how flattening the crown and widening the underarm length increases range of motion.
The two images comprising this diagram are shown above and below.
This could be part of the reason why my V8543 bodice muslin is too tight at the sleeve back seam when I put my arm into the driving position, although the main reason is that I cut the size too small overall. I plan to cut a bigger one.
Thinking of Goldilocks and The Three Bears, I decided I wanted a “just right” compromise between fit and range of motion, meaning the perfect balance among these three arm positions:
1. Zombie position (driving). Image courtesy of bestsoylatte. Click for source.
2. Scarecrow position with arms elevated at sides.
3. Madonna position (arms lowered at sides, not quite at rest, with a slight outward rotation). Image courtesy of St. Mary Star of the Sea. Click for source.
Martin produced curves for these positions.
Blue = Zombie, Green = Scarecrow, Red = Madonna.
Here’s what happens when you take the union of these curves to optimize for all three positions.
Smoothing you get this.
And tracing you get this.
The Goldilocks Zombie, Scarecrow and Madonna Compromise.
These shapes look pretty close to the armscye/sleeve cap shapes of commercial patterns, with a couple exceptions:
1) the sleeve cap has a slightly deeper scoop in front, and
2) the armscye is slightly rotated forward.
My third V8543 bodice muslin will approximate this armscye/sleeve cap design.
What do you think about your own arm range of motion preferences? Do you also want to wear garments optimized for all three of these positions?
{ 8 comments… read them below or add one }
Interesting! (And happy birthday!) I like good range of motion but I’m not as fussed about it as some people. I wear a lot of knits (which mitigate the need for the sleeve to actually fit properly to enable movement). I don’t like a low armscye, however, and I can’t stand a sleeve that looks badly set in.
K-Line recently posted..La Cage Aux Folles
Knits do seem to solve everything. If I had the full use of my hands I would take up knitting.
Stamping out low armscyes and badly set-in sleeves is a mission worth fighting for!
An interesting problem of exactly what sleeve is best. The RTW industry does not give the buying public much choice. I like the idea of designing a sleeve that will be what the wearer wants.
Right, but what does the wearer want? I want a compromise of motion/fit, but I might be in the minority on that point.
I doubt many of us knows what we want. I mostly tend to lead a Zombie-Madonna life, I’m afraid. I don’t do much of the Scarecrow thing, nor the Cheerleader either, for that matter (arms straight up) – or is that Traffic Cop? Do you need another colour to do Cheerleader/Traffic Cop?
I like that diagram that talks about flattening the crown, etc. I can just about get that.
Shelley recently posted..Roofs
I lead a Zombie/Madonna life as well, but occasionally want the scarecrow, cheerleader & traffic cop option. We were going to call cheerleader/traffic cop option the prisoner option with arms overhead, but we figured it used the least, so we didn’t add that one. If you want to see it though I’ll have Martin draw that one.
Since I’ve started reading your journey towards the perfect sleeve cap I’ve also discovered the answers to some of my personal wardrobe choices and why I’ve never been completely comfortable wearing blazers and jackets except for the spring/summer versions which usually consist of less padding, lining and have a loose weave fabric that combined together offer a greater range of motion. I’m also a huge fan of the raglan sleeve which is super comfortable and works incredibly well with my body type, reducing the look of square shoulders to a softer, narrower more feminine look. I find the traditional tight woven jackets to constrictive and the sleeves too narrow and tight in most cases.
coffeeaddict recently posted..Bead soup 2013 – meet my partner Sarah
I’m starting to wonder whether I’ll want to wear blazers/jackets either. This may be a “fantasy” design that will never work well for me. I think think it’s worth trying a 3rd muslin. I am very happy to know I can relax the sleeve dimensions a bit for comfort and range of motion.