V8815 Muslin. It’s really cute.
Do you remember reading the Ladies’ Home Journal feature Can This Marriage Be Saved? back in the day? I used to love reading it but the updated version annoys me.
I’m not going to bore you with the details (I’ll update the post with links to adjustment photos later for sewists if I end up going with this design), but although I’ve changed every single piece of this pattern to get it hang correctly on my unusual frame with weight gain at the waist, and I love it, I’m not sure I can go forth making it in expensive fabric.
It may be that people with weight gain at the waist shouldn’t try to wear a design with peplum.
It’s so very, very cute though.
The horizontal waist line mark is 2″ above my natural waist, where the waist band of my Eileen Fisher pants sit. The seamstress suggested making the pattern waist sit at the natural waist. Martin marked a lower neckline.
What I want think about is how lovely I will feel wearing it with this fabric and my lovely new Wendy Brandes intergalactic Venus earrings.
But that’s not what I’m thinking about.
Martin wanted to try dyeing Dharma Trading Co. silks, which are fairly inexpensive at $10 a yard.
What I am thinking about is photos.
Last year, at my own wedding, I had to make a last-minute wardrobe change because the weather that day was unseasonably warm. The careful outfit I had planned and which would have flattered my figure was completely out of the question. In haste, I chose a top that unfortunately emphasized my waist weight gain, in profile, and especially because I was wearing Spanx shape wear. What a harsh lesson. I learned, looking at the wedding photos, that shape wear is a really bad idea. Far better to wear your sins without apologies than to try to cover them up.
The next morning, as I discovered to my horror when I logged into facebook, a well-meaning wedding guest had posted several unattractive photos of me using the tagging feature. In most of the shots, my unflattering waist gain was front and center, as were sweat stains and tears. I want to emphasize that this guest meant no harm. As I see it, this was a case of being caught up in the moment.
However, it’s changed my view of attending private events, forever. From now on, I will think of cameras in attending private events, because the cameras are everywhere.
Left to right, rose, garnet, lilac.
Martin suggested trying his idea of lowering the waist to the natural waist. He felt it would solve profile issues.
Okay.
Here’s the lowered waist, which worked perfectly. I agree that this woven garment is hanging on my frame perfectly. Here’s me holding in the peplum though, to help illustrate why this design might not be the best design for older women with weight gain, at the waist.
It’s okay.
Letting go now. Here’s what happens with the peplum.
Maternity.
Can this MOTB Design be Saved?
{ 27 comments… read them below or add one }
One thought would be shift to a blouson style. Lower the peplum section a bit, so that its hem lands below the hipline, extending onto the upper thigh. Play with it to find a flattering point.
In agreement with Martin that the waist would be better dropped, so do that and make a casing at the waist seam, threading a narrow loose elastic length through it. Loose for it to be able to move as you move. The peplum portion will be shorter in relation, but long enough to cover the butt.
Think the golden mean for proportions.
One last idea: the sleeves might be more in keeping if they had a bit more of the peplum idea in their hemlines, too. More flowing rather than fitted. Maybe.
The earrings are very pretty indeed. They catch the light like star sapphires.
Hi Elsa,
The last two photos are of the new muslin with the dropped waist change Martin suggested. The dropped waist improves the fit but doesn’t solve the issue of the peplum flare at the waist. We sketched some lower peplum designs but this really doesn’t work with my very short, swayed back. I see what you mean about the elastic, but it won’t solve the problem of the peplum flare emphasizing my abdomen in profile. I like the idea of peplum at the sleeves for a balancing effect but in the sketches it doesn’t seem to work well with short sleeves. Martin thinks adding some volume at the sleeve hem will help.
Admittedly, my suggestions for a modified blouson style would change the garment’s profile, probably more than preferred. I did notice that the waist had been dropped in the latter pix, yet doing so still didn’t seem to achieve the profile you desire.
Checking again the original pattern sketch on the previous post, comparing it with your mock-up, and the proportions of the two sections are different from yours. Hence my mentioning the golden mean.
Happened to see a jacket this morning with 3/4-length sleeves (a bit shorter than those suggested by Kathy), which was lovely, and noticed that the waist was quite high and fitted in relation to them. The peplum’s hemline was higher in the front and lower in back, wrapping around the hips, too, with basically no flare at all.
Your photos show a hemline lower in front than back, not the most flattering silhouette, even for slender hips.
Not that I’m wedded to a blouson. Simply have observed its ability to ameliorate fitting challenges when it’s handled well. Plus, it’s comfortable and easy to move about in.
Your proposal to make a version in one of the silks is smart. It’ll hang more fluidly than the muslin, giving you a better sense of the final product.
The sleeves: a more bell-like cut at the hem? To echo the peplum. You and Martin will figure it out. Thank you for continuing to share.
Great minds must think alike because Martin was thinking along the same lines in terms of removing peplum flare in the front. I just had a chance to play with it and works perfectly. In fact, removing the front peplum flare not only fixes the issue of emphasizing my waist weight gain it is actually slimming! And it makes sense now, that any fullness at the waist will tend to follow the angle outward of the curve it is going over. Gathering/pinning the peplum fullness to the side seam makes that panel angle downward, hugging the curve closer to the body so that the side silhouette is as slimming as possible.
Now the waist seam can go back up where it belongs, at the smallest part of the waist, not the lower natural waist. I agree with you that having it lower in front than in back is not flattering. That line should be level.
I’d heard of the golden mean but had forgotten what it was all about so I looked it up and I see exactly what you mean. In the photos I’m wearing the peplum with the unfinished hem length. The hem is only 5/8″ but I think I need to make it 1 inch to get the proportions right. Obviously I lost some of the bodice height going over my chest and rib cage curves.
Yes, great minds again, Martin suggested a bell shape at the sleeve hem line to add fullness for balancing. Great idea.
Thank you for your helpful comments!
There are several changes so I’m going to cut another muslin before trying silk.
The first two pics show your waist to be super trim and I absolutely do think you are rocking the peplum. I would keep it fitted at the waist, but hey, I couldn’t do the amazing job you’re doing – could you pop over and give me a lesson in pattern drafting please? xoxo
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Desiree, you could certainly do what I am doing if you wanted to but I think you are having way too much fun with your unique, wonderfully fitting stylings to bother with the nitty gritty details of pattern adjusting!
I got a smile out of your post as I read the line, “but that’s not what I’m thinking of” and then looked at the photo of the pot on the stove. I thought, “she’s worried she’ll be in the kitchen during the reception and the skirt of the peplum will brush up against the counters and get dirty.” Then I read the caption and that wasn’t your worry.
I know what you mean about photos everywhere. The daughter of a friend was just married and all over Facebook was a picture of the mother-of-the-bride (my friend) in her fancy dress with a bottle of wine in her hand drinking (guzzling) right out of the bottle.
I’m sure this was after the reception was over and they were tipsy, because I saw perfectly respectable photos of them during the reception, but still – nothing is private.
So, since you can’t be sure you won’t be caught having an awfully good time, you’d better be sure your outfit looks good from any angle. I think for those of us with less than narrow waists that the horizontal line at the middle might be difficult. The classic fashion-blogger move would be to put a belt on it, but I think that might have the same issues as your Spandx shaper last summer.
Belts have never, ever worked for me, even as a younger and slimmer woman, because there was/is no taper at my waist.
Your friend’s facebook story makes me cringe. My own facebook story changed my attitude about public vs. private. From now on, when I go out of my home, I assume I’m in public, even if I’m on my way to a private event. It makes me want to wear a suit of armor, but since I can’t do that, I come as close as possible to my own version of armor by wearing flattering clothes and makeup.
What people don’t seem to realize is that there is a huge difference between taking a random photo and taking a high-quality photo that flatters the subject. So many of the “tagged” photos I see on facebook do not flatter the subject at all. Some are so bad they remind me of http://walmart-people.com. Photos taken in flat sunlight, grainy photos, photos emphasizing unflattering posture and facial expressions — these are photos that would have been edited out back in the days when you decided which photos to develop/print. There is no editing now.
I love the way it looks in the first photo – very flattering (at least from this angle) and the higher waist makes you look very leggy. I like the sleeves the way they are, but I also think they’d look very good at “bracelet” length. Perhaps a bit more elegant, and it might be good to have them go past the place where the waist is now, not so horizontal.
I think the top is great, and you know I’m honest.
I’m so enjoying this design process that I just printed the photo and drew in bracelet length sleeves – I think it looks great and more elongating. I like the neck how it is – if you want to lower it, maybe just a touch, but not as low as the markings.
Hi Kathy,
Thank you playing “design review” with us. We also did some sketches and agree that longer sleeves are more elegant. However, I know myself, and there is no way I would be able to tolerate longer sleeves in July in Sonoma. No way. And I agree with you about the neck. I lowered it just a touch, not as much as Martin’s marked line, and it’s perfect.
I have similar fit issues. I bought the same pattern and I plan on modifying it as follows:
1)Lower horizontal seam line to my smallest waist area. For me it’s about an inch above my belly button.
2)I will modify the neckline to a “V” neck similar to V2900 (It will break up the square that is my upper torso into two rectangles)
3) I will bring in the shoulder seam for a narrower shoulder (just past the acromion) I have narrow hips and broad shoulders and this helps to balance my figure.
4)I will add more sleeve cap for the narrowed shoulder width.
5)I will shorten the sleeve length so it doesn’t emphasize my waist girth by creating a continuous horizontal line at my mid section. I also avoid the bust line. I don’t have a large bust but I do have a larger ribcage.
6)I will make sure the peplum hits at or just above my narrow hips. This will widen them a bit to make my waist seam seem smaller.
7) I will make sure the back is fitted properly to give myself the narrowest profile possible. (Fit back, skim weight in front).
Try drawing these modifications over your personal croquis taken from a photo. I bet you’ll still consider this peplum.
Hi D, these changes all sound great. I’m actually happy with the design changes I’ve made so far, which include your 5-7 changes. As for 1, the first two photos show the waist line sitting at the smallest waist area, but I lowered the line to sit at my natural waist. This improved but did not solve the profile issue — the peplum still flares out, emphasizing the waist. Re: 2, I do plan to try making a version with this change, but for the MOTB top, I want to keep the crew design because there’s a pendant I want to wear over the top of the blouse.
Re: 3, I would love to, but can’t because I’ve already added so much to the back shoulder seam.
Re: 4, very good point! I will make this sleeve change.
I think I’ll go ahead and make the top in one of the silk batches Martin dyed over the weekend. That silk is only $10 a yard. That way I can test the garment in the actual fabric I plan to make the top with and see how it looks/feels.
It may be that I have to let go of the fact that unflattering photos of my profile will be taken and possibly distributed without my permission. This seems to be a feature of modern life. It’s out of my control, so there’s no point in worrying about it.
You’ll be beautiful!!!!
Thank you D!
Susan, Got some good laughs here reading about your wanting to wear a suit of armor to events with cameras clicking all over the place.
In the muslin I happen to like the neckline and the sleeves which are both a cool and flattering length. Making the test silk will tell you a lot.
Have you considered wearing a slightly fitted loose top, which will be both cool and disguise any errant areas? At the speedy rate you’re going, you could make up a number of choices so you won’t feel locked in.
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A suit of armor sounds perfect but I bet its gets hot inside!
The sleeves aren’t hemmed so they’ll actually be a little shorter. I like Elsa’s and Martin’s idea of a bell shape.
Elsa and Martin both suggested removing the front peplum flare and it worked!
Your idea of having several options is a good one. I need more Summer tops anyway.
Thanks for letting us in on the evolution of your designs, Susan. It’s fun to learn about peplums and watch the Partlan Group at work. Incidentally, I’m a huge Google Images fan and I typed in “mother of the bride peplum top” just to see what would come up. You get quite an array of sizes, shapes and variations on the theme, which may spark some ideas.
Wow. What a great idea. I just tried it and the design possibilities are marvelous! Now that I’ve fixed the front panel (removed the peplum) and just have it in the back, where it’s working in my favor, I feel like interfacing the heck out it to get some architecture. This is getting fun!
I like the way it looks in the first photo, you look trim and lovely in it.
I don’t like clothes that fit to my waist, I feel constricted and awkward in them.
I’m so impressed with Martin’s helpfulness, what a man! x
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Thank you Vix. There’s enough added room at the waist so it doesn’t feel overly fitted, and now that I’ve removed the front peplum the drape is working in profile to be more flattering to my silhouette. It’s coming together! And yes, Martin is a keeper :). xoxo
I went back to the outfit you’d originally intended to wear for your wedding ceremony and the red top with its simple straight design works has both a slimming and an elongating effect. This peplum howerer cuts you in half right in the middle of you “trouble” area and it actually emphasises your petite frame. Though as was suggested in other comments, this muslin is very stiff and a light weight silk will be much more soft and drapey.
My two suggestions would be:
cut the peplum on the bias, maybe even extenting the edge line on one side thus having a diagonal hemline which will hold the peplum down a bit and give you a more elongating and slimming effect.
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I know. The vogue site says this design doesn’t flatter a rectangle figure and the reasons you pointed out are why it’s a difficult design for my shape. I really think removing the front peplum is going to work and will have another muslin finished to test this theory soon. If I only wear designs that are best for my shape there will be so few style choices! I guess I’m hoping that by getting it fit correctly, doing my best to not emphasize the trouble area and sewing it in a drapey fabric I’ll get a really cute top that I’ll enjoy wearing.
I did cut the peplum on the bias and extend the edge but it didn’t work. The waist seam creates a “break” between the vertical bodice and the fuller peplum right where the fuller peplum needs to go over the curve of my belly. This fullness is making the peplum angle outward at that spot. When I remove the flare, the peplum doesn’t angle out.
Update: the test muslin with front peplum removed does fix the angle issue but now the horizontal line seems even more emphasized. That seam line has to go!
I think it all depends on the shapewear…I do well with Spanx with most outfits, but I always have to examine it carefully to make sure I’m not creating a problem.
I like your adorable phone cover!
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You are so diplomatic, not commenting on the design. Watching a design-challenged person reverse engineer design principles through trial and error must be like watching a train wreck in slow motion. Today’s epiphany, and my next post title, is just say no to horizontal lines!
That’s interesting you get pretty good results with shape wear, but then again, you don’t have any shape flaws. I could imagine that a body (swimsuit-like) shape wear garment would work well in terms of smoothing, but I imagine those are horribly hot in warm weather and I would lose the wonderful architecture of my perfect bras. Aside from losing weight, which is a goal not coming off the table, I think it’s best for me to go with comfortable, cool and slimming designs in warm weather.
The phone cover is a Kate Spade design :).
Suit of armour would be about right; between cameras and the internet, very little real privacy remains. I am always harping about people who take photos at road races – none of us looks good with a red, sweaty face! I have read that good clothes feel like a suit of armour and when I wear things that give me confidence it does feel very protective.
I’ve gone off ‘cute’ clothes on me. Maybe it’s just the word, but at 56 and 5’3″, anything the least little girl-y feels a bit Baby Jane. You talk about limited style choices, but when you get this garment just the way you want it, I would think you’d make it in several fabrics and enjoy just wearing something perfect for you. I find endless choice and novelty detracts from my ‘fullness of life’. Sometimes I just want to get dressed and get on with things. Having only good clothes (as in flattering and well made, not necessarily formal or costing the earth) would make that a lot simpler. That’s just my idea of great clothes, what I dream about.
I’ve struggled with my side view in recent years, it’s a real challenge! I was quite slim in my youth and always had a flat stomach and small waist, but no more. I really appreciate your difficulties with this.
Those dyed colours are to dye for! (Sorry, couldn’t resist). I have heard that dyeing is very tricky, but I’d be really tempted to use the fabric anyhow, flaws and all. Martin sounds completely lovely, in addition to being knowledgeable about sewing clothes!
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The lack of privacy situation frosts me. Boy do I know what you mean about avoiding cute. I’m 55 and 5’5″ and in today’s world full of giant tall people that reads short. Short and cute do not mix IMO.
It’s absolutely true that you really only need a few good designs that work well in terms of flattering your body. Everything else is just details, and like you said, you don’t need too many of those to make a beautiful garment.
Side views should be banned. I used to be slim too!
Dyeing is indeed tricky but Martin is a great experimenter. This weekend his results are far better. He’s like that, trying stuff till he gets it right.
Thank you for the lovely compliment about my sweetie. He’s a keeper :).